Trend file with Secret Closet: PFW 3 London; a fusion of sorts

The third Pakistan Fashion Week (PFW) held in London earlier this month saw a host of almost forty designers from various style genres showcase their works.

The majority focused on traditional wedding formals, probably keeping up with the local demand and the fascination with our native handcrafted embellishments. However, a few like Maheen Khan, Nomi Ansari, Zaheer Abbas, Ayesha Farook Hashwani and Sonya Battla among others pushed the boundaries and brought impressive fusion originals to the forefront.
Maheen Khan’s modern spin on ethnic fusion was probably one of the most creative displays of the two-day event. It floated the notion that Pakistani designs are applicable to more than just bridals and classic eastern wear and translated further to a new realm of prêt wear that can be sported internationally, without being completely absorbed or categorised as western wear. There was not one piece in her collection that we could not imagine being modeled on the streets of London and equally at home. From the truck art prints to the Urdu script and adorable vehicles – we were proud of every bit of it and even better were those fresh breezy silhouettes. The outfits were styled brilliantly with signature Gulabo cross body bags and printed scarves for a pure Pakistani desi chic look.
Ayesha Farook Hashwani has always resonated with the cosmopolitan element because of her label’s universal flavours. She showcased in London a figurative melting pot of cultures, which gave Ayesha the freedom to show the essence of AFH in all its glory. Her signature romantic feminine streak, accompanied with a powerful refined confidence, were an abundant feature in the collection. She struck a careful balance between titillating audiences with her peek-a-boo cuts and charming them with soft understated pastels in fluid shapes and eastern embellishments.

The element of fear leads to a good show: Wardha Saleem

Wardha Saleem is best known for her prêt-a-porter as well as lawn collections — modern and traditional embroidery, vibrant colours and block prints. Her latest collection Folk Play, a colourful exhibition of psychedelic prints, was one of the best collections to have come out of Fashion Pakistan Week (FPW4).

“I belong to Sindh and that is why this rich culture is so prevalent in my work,” says Wardha, referring to her Jhirki and Folk Play collections. “At the Indus Valley School of Art and Architecture [IVSAA], I learnt about this craft in detail — how to take inspiration from this culture and turn it into a statement piece in today’s time.” The designer did her bachelors in textile design from IVSAA in 2003 and has been teaching at the institute since.Wardha feels that if you want to reach the pinnacle of your career and “keep the ball rolling”, you need to love what you do. “We always put something special in our clothes,” she says, adding that people consequently try to copy the embroidery and overall style. “However, there is a lot more to a complete outfit than just that. It cannot be copied entirely.” Referring to the imitations of her lawn designs from 2011, she says, “I believe you need to be a trendsetter. People follow you and you should enjoy it and not get angry — it’s part of the game.”

For the designer, it is the constant support from family, friends and workers that has allowed the label to make a place for itself in the fashion realm. Her brothers look after the brand’s marketing and legal affairs while her friends, Tapu Javeri (official photographer of the brand) and Ayaz Anis, have been pillars of support. “A strong family system brings out the best in you,” she smiles.

“The craftsmen that work for us are very poor and I feel responsible for them,” she continues, talking about her workers based in Tando Allahyar who are responsible for patchwork, Tando Muhammad Khan for ajrak and Karachi for block-printing. “As designers, I feel it’s our responsibility to save our traditional craft. Look at India, their craft industry is blooming,” she says. “We have a lot of talent and skill in Pakistan too and we need to save it from falling apart.”

Interior designer’s debut collection shows traditional furniture with a splash of colour

Maira Chinoy has spent the last two years in Italy, taking in all she could from the country’s art and culture. She has now returned to share it with Pakistan.

The 26-year-old showcased her first collection at The House of Ensemble on January 18 and 19, which included decorative furniture pieces like mirrors, candle stands, mannequins, chairs, and trays along with other art pieces.

Chinoy said her work is a representation of herself. “This exhibition defines who I am. It brings out the fun as well as classical side to me,” said Chinoy, who has done her Masters in Interior Design from the Florence Design Academy in Italy. “In Pakistan, artists have become a little stagnant with their designs. With my work, I want to encourage people to be fearless and take risks.” She feels Pakistan is going through a gloomy period and needs something fun and colourful to look forward to.

At her debut exhibition, Chinoy tactfully infused a vibrant theme to traditional and antique designs; one of the chairs, for instance, was uniformly rustic and dull gold with a bright and cheerful seat print. “My main goal is to light up a room where my art piece is placed,” she said.

Growing up, Chinoy said she always knew she wanted to create enthused art. “I started off by creating art pieces solely for myself. This is something I absolutely adore and enjoy doing,” she said. “When I start working, I get inspired by tons of things and have a million ideas going through my mind at once; as a result, unique things are created which you would have never imagined.” The theme she had in mind for this exhibition was nature, which was clearly depicted through the mannequins and animal (deer and horse) heads.